Returning to Delhi

As we drove further and further from Shimla, it was obvious that we were getting closer to Delhi. Kalka, the first large town in Himachal that we came to after leaving the foothills, was full of trash in a way that we hadn’t seen in the last seven weeks: there were piles of garbage everywhere, mostly consisting of plastic bags, with cows and pigs picking through it all for something to eat. As the hours and miles passed, the air started to take on a smell that is particular to Delhi, one that is a mix of sewage, smog, shit, sweat, and exhaust. We got stuck in traffic numerous times and witnessed the aftermath of two different highway accidents. (Danny also saw two dogs that had been run over in separate incidents.)

We’re staying at Ess Gee’s guest house, in the Patel Nagar neighborhood, which has actually turned out to be a disappointment. The room itself isn’t terrible, for India standards. Despite the dirty floor that turns my feet brown when I walk around barefoot, really slow shower drain, sticky geyser handle on the toilet (yuck), crappy channel options on the TV, two single beds separated by a nightstand instead of one double bed, and the occasional visit from a large cockroach or mouse, it’s actually quite roomy, has an air conditioner, and is located in a nice neighborhood. Unfortunately, we were expecting more from the hotel, and it hasn’t delivered. The breakfast, included in the room rate, is standard, boring white toast and eggs – from chickens, based on how my boiled eggs tasted the first morning, that may have been raised on garbage. Plus they skimp on the butter for the toast. The hotel’s website claims it has a business center, with internet and long-distance calling facilities. It turns out that was blatant false-advertising, since there is nothing of the sort on-site. They also charge exorbitant amounts for laundry. At Rs.20 per piece, it cost us nearly twenty dollars to do a load of laundry – and that’s partially because they charged per sock! Meanwhile, the “boss” is a disembodied voice who lives somewhere on one of the upper floors and is only available by telephone – his staff takes care of everything, and he never even asked us to check in properly. Makes you wonder if the place, which doesn’t even have a sign board outside, is even a legitimate hotel.

There was another hotel that we’d been interested in. For an extra 100 rupees per night, it has wireless, fridges in-room, a rooftop café with room service, and most likely has a real-live person at a real-live reception desk. The only reason we didn’t go with that place to begin with was because it’s in Paharganj, where Danny was hesitant to stay in. Paharganj is the hot-spot for backpackers, hippies, drug dealers, beggars, filth, and low-budget digs. Hotel Prince Polonia, which we plan to check out this afternoon, is definitely not a budget hotel (not at Rs. 1200/night!) and is also a little bit off the main drag – and so we’re hoping the facilities will make up for its location.

While I wouldn’t walk around Paharganj by myself at night, I actually kind of like it there – although I’ve only spent small amounts of time there, watching the traffic move by while I was sequestered in the safety of a restaurant. It’s a great place for cheap eats, which are hard to find in Delhi, and the people watching can’t be beat. I especially enjoy critiquing the outfits of the tourists who are generally trying too hard or have been convinced by a shopkeeper that their purchase will help them fit in. The shops, which are most definitely geared toward tourists, are also fun to look at, provided I’m at a distance where I’m not going to be shouted at: “Yes, madam? Madam, looking is free.”

Paharganj might be an interesting place to stay. It seems as though every other young traveler to Delhi, including Danny, has stayed there at one point or another. If nothing else, it’ll give me something to write about.