Returning to India

Oh, Delhi. I have a love/hate relationship with this place. The casual observer might wonder why anyone would want to come to visit: the constant blaring of horns, the blazing sun and muggy air, the brown haze of smog that hangs over the city, the smell of sweat and human waste, the men who stare at Western women. But there's much more beneath the city's harsh exterior: spicy chai enjoyed on rooftop cafes, friendly street dogs, gorgeous buildings that are hundreds of years old, the jewel tones of the kurtis worn by women, the food, and the food, and the food.



The first twenty hours back have been completely uneventful. Which is just what I'm needing right now. After a 30+ hour trip, hanging out in the air-conditioned hotel room all day, watching (and analyzing and trying to learn Hindi from) Indian TV, is all I really want to do.

For the next four nights, we're staying at the Ananda Hotel in Karol Bagh, which is apparently a nice neighborhood for shopping and which, of course, I currently know nothing about. The hotel itself is your standard over-priced, bare-bones big city accommodation. It has all the important ammenities, such as a bed, TV, a Western toilet, constant hot water, air con, and wireless. There are moth balls in the sink and shower drains (for the purposes of air freshening?), and the sticker on the trash bin reads, "Dustbin: A unique solution for waste."


The complimentary breakfast, served on the roof, consisted of several slices of toasted white bread with margarine and high-fructose-syrup-loaded jam, two undercooked fried eggs, and subpar chai. I suppose I can't complain too much. It was free, after all. To undo the effects of the many, many empty calories I'll probably be taking in, I've brought a veritable medicine cabinet of supplements, including a multi, Omega-3s, and odor-free garlic (a natural remedy to help keep the mosquitos away). When I was last here, it seemed like so much of the food I was eating was fried, smothered in greasy gravy -- or highly processed, as was the case with this morning's toast and margarine. My goal this time is to make healthy menu choices which fit more closely along the lines of how I like to eat (lots of fruit and vegetables, whole wheat breads, etc.). It means I need to learn more about different dishes by trying new ones, which is certainly not a task I mind taking on.

At some point today, Danny and I will venture into the wide world, maybe get something to eat and pick up some needed items like lotion and conditioner. Tomorrow we might even actually go do something, like visit the rhesus macaques at Connaught Place. In the meantime, I'm happy to just hang out in this room with a copy of Yoga Journal and Hindi-dubbed documentaries on Nat Geo.